NEL - a funky bunker in the heart of Sydney
A typical Sydney evening in late March, its muggy and drizzling as we walk down Wentworth Avenue in Surrey Hills. It’s an industrial feeling location with lots of roads intersecting and a rail wine line passing nearby. The entrance to NEL is subtle and easy to miss. A small sign, a single glass door glowing with diffuse light through the etched glass betrays no hints of the delights within.
Street Entrance to NEL
Down the winding industrial staircase, the funky bunker that is NEL reveals itself through a narrow vista as a warm and inviting space. This is a place where I would put a bed in the corner and happily live. The ceiling is a clean industrial black, hiding the pipework and cabling that is the legacy evidence of the spaces past. Simple commercial style down lights on exposed brick walls, give the space subtle lighting, allied with a light olive on the industrial concrete of the pillars softens the room and provides a surprising welcoming warmth.
Walking into heaven
“Spearheading the kitchen, chef Nelly Robinson and his team are widely celebrated for their unique dining experience. Nelly’s robust understanding and appreciation of the best produce is showcased in every dish and is guaranteed to throw guests into a food frenzy.”
In the 20 years I worked restaurants, one of my early bosses instilled in me the idea that a customer should always be greeted within seconds of entering the restaurant, the NEL front of house team are definitely schooled in the same tradition. You will be greeted within moments of entering and swept to your table quickly and professionally.
The tables are decorated simply and with restraint. It took one of the neighboring tables looking for a new fork for us to discover the secret that lurks in the side of each table.
This is so cool, all the cutlery you need for an 11 course degustation, hidden away…
The Food, ahhhhh the food. The food is absolutely the star of the show and everything in the restaurant is designed to highlight this simple fact.
Food is the center and the reason for NEL. It is at the center of everything, the service, the simple décor, the lack of table settings, the lighting. Everything is designed to be as simple as possible in order to highlight and shine the spotlight on each dish.
NEL presents a dish like a diamond cutter presents a gem. It is precisely formulated, it is meticulously planned and crafted, it engages all of your senses, and it is perfect. Each menu is designed as an 11-course degustation, each dish is created and presented as an end-to-end experience, highlighting taste, beauty and texture. It is an interlinked series of experiences.
One of the more innovative ideas in the restaurant is that NEL will offer a set menu based on a theme, we have experienced Singapore and Disney. The themed degustation offers a menu inspired by Disney movies. This menu has been so successful that it is now offered annually. Disney @ NEL starts in May this year, can’t wait!
The menu is changed every 2-3 months, each new menu is inspired by something in Nelly Robinson's (Chef / Owner) life experience. The menu and the pictures in this note are from the April 2023 "A Taste of Singapore" experience.
April 2023, “A Taste of Singapore” experience by NEL
As with most multi course degustation's the experience starts with small snacks to inspire your palate and get your taste buds working. The Singapore experience starts with Macadamia "Tau Huay" bean curd, presented in a tiny ceramic bowl containing the curd and the most delicate amount of smoke, imparting just the tiniest bit of flavor in your nose and across your taste buds. Lennox Hastie at Firedoor would be impressed at the delicate waft of smoke flavor, of which he is the master, but which is used so perfectly here.
Macadamia "Tau Huay" bean curd and smoke
Each dish is part of a whole experience and the front of house team ensure that your pacing and the flow of the meal is perfect for you.
Singapore Chilli Crab
Bubble Tea - Inspired by the popular beverage loved by Singaporeans
Milk Curd Bun
Nel is an experience, from the winding down the concrete steps of the entrance, the warmth of the greeting, the service, the wine, the exquisitely crafted dishes.
The wine pairing is definitely a part of the conversation between the Chef and your palette and the two should definitely be experienced together - that’s shorthand for do the wine pairing.
Be aware - Nel is Sydney fine dining, quality like this is not cheap and you should come prepared to spend, every dollar is worth it in my eyes.
Scoring 20/20
We use the Sydney Morning Herald Scoring system for consistency.
The score is based on multiple visits to the restaurant for 2-3 years.
10/10 points for food
Deliciousness, technique, complexity, quality of produce, balance, presentation, consistency, style, innovation, integrity.
5/5 points for hospitality
Attitude, friendliness, efficiency, pacing, attentiveness, professional skills, knowledge, COVID safety.
3/3 points for experience and setting
The "buzz" or "vibe", consistency, view, table spacing, noise levels, something extra (such as a kitchen garden or counter dining).
2/2 points for value
Is it worth it? I am on my second trip to Nel and I intend to return for third trip to repeat the Disney experience. I constantly recommend it to friends and colleagues and now to you.
